First steps against condensation
You will need to take proper steps to deal with the
condensation, but there are some measures you can take right
away. Wipe down the windows and cills every morning, wring out the
cloth rather than drying it on a radiator. Condensation channels
and sponge strips can be bought at DIY shops, they are fitted to
windows to collect the condensation and thus help prevent window
frames from rotting and avoid damp forming under the cills. Care
must be taken to fit these devices properly.
First steps against mould
First treat the mould already in your home. If you deal with the
basic problem, mould should not reappear. To kill and remove mould,
wipe down walls and window frames with a fungicidal wash which
carries a Health and Safety Executive ‘approval number’. Follow the
manufacturer’s instructions precisely. Dry-clean mildewed clothes
and shampoo carpets. Disturbing mould by brushing or vacuum
cleaning can increase the risk of respiratory problems.
After treatment redecorate using a good quality fungicidal paint
to help prevent mould, however this paint is not effective if
overlaid with ordinary paints or wallpaper. When wallpapering, use
a paste containing a fungicide to prevent further mould growth. The
only lasting way of avoiding severe mould is to eliminate
dampness.
Is it condensation?
Condensation is not the only cause of damp. It can also come
from:
- Leaking pipes, wastes or overflows
- Rain seeping through the roof where a tile or slate is missing,
spilling from a blocked gutter, water penetration around window
frames, or leaking through a cracked pipe
- Rising damp due to a defective or missing damp-course or
because there is no damp course. These causes of damp often leave a
‘tidemark’ and you should have the necessary repairs carried out to
remove the source of damp. If your home is Council owned this work
will be undertaken by the Council’s contractors. Contact the
Maintenance Office to report any repairs.
- If your home is newly built it may be damp because the water
used during its construction (e.g. in plaster) is still drying
out.
- If your home is damp for any of these reasons it may take weeks
of heating and ventilating to dry out. Hiring a dehumidifier will
help.
- If you do not think the damp comes from any of these causes, it
is probably condensation.
What is condensation?
There is always some moisture in the air, even if you cannot see
it. If the air gets colder it cannot hold all the moisture and tiny
drops of water appear, this is condensation. You may notice it when
you see your breath on a cold day or when the mirror mists over
when you have a bath. Condensation occurs mainly during cold
weather, whether it is raining or dry. It does not leave a
‘tidemark’. It appears in places where there is little movement of
air. Look for it in corners, on or near windows, in or behind
wardrobes and cupboards. It often forms on north-facing walls.
Produce less moisture
Some ordinary daily activities produce a lot of moisture very
quickly.
- Cooking - To reduce the amount of moisture, cover pans and do
not leave kettles boiling. Paraffin and portable flueless
bottled-gas heaters: These heaters put a lot of moisture into the
air - one gallon of gas or paraffin produces about a gallon of
water. If you have a problem with condensation, try to find
alternative means of heating.
- Washing clothes - Put washing outdoors to dry if you can.
Or put it in the bathroom with the door closed and the window open
or fan on. It is best to fit a fan that can be switched to run
continuously for clothes drying. If you have a tumble dryer make
sure you vent it to the outside (unless it is the self-condensing
type). DIY kits are available for this.
Ventilate to remove the moisture
You can ventilate your home without making draughts. Some
ventilation is needed to get rid of moisture being produced all the
time, including that from people’s breath. Keep a small window ajar
or a trickle ventilator open all the time if possible and
especially when someone is in the room. You need much more
ventilation in the kitchen and bathroom when cooking, washing up,
bathing and drying clothes. This means opening the widows wider.
Alternatively, use a humidistat-controlled electric fan (these come
on automatically when the air becomes humid and are cheap to
run).
Close the kitchen and bathroom doors when these rooms are in use
even if your kitchen or bathroom has an extractor fan. It will help
to draughtproof these doors. Doing this will help stop the moisture
reaching other rooms, especially bedrooms, which are often colder
and more likely to get condensation. Allow space for the air to
circulate in and around your furniture. Open doors to ventilate
cupboards and wardrobes. Leave space between the backs of wardrobes
and the wall. Where possible, position wardrobes and furniture
against internal walls, i.e. walls which have a room on both sides,
rather than against outside walls.
When you have a curtain or blind drawn, it makes the surface of
the window cooler and increases condensation, especially with
single glazed windows. Trickle ventilators can help reduce the
problem. If you replace your windows at any time, make sure they
are double glazed and fitted with trickle ventilators. Council
owned properties will have trickle ventilators fitted to each room
as standard when new replacement windows are provided. However,
trickle ventilators will not be provided if windows are not due to
be replaced.
Insulate and draughtproof
Insulation in the loft, cavity wall insulation and
draughtproofing of windows and outside doors will help keep your
home warm and you will have lower fuel bills as well. When the
whole home is warmer, condensation is less likely to occur.
When draughtproofing:
- Do not block permanent ventilators
- Do not completely block chimneys (leave a hole about two bricks
in size and fit a louvred grille over it).
- Do not draughtproof rooms where there is a fuel burning heater
(e.g. gas fire) or cooker. Do not draughtproof windows in the
bathroom or kitchen
If you live in a house, insulating your loft is a cost-effective
way of cutting heating costs. Remember to draughtproof the loft
hatch but do not block any eaves ventilation. Cavity wall
insulation is also an effective way of cutting heating costs. Many
properties, however, are built without suitable cavities. If you
are in doubt, you should seek the advice of a building
professional. Grants for insulation may be available through the
Eaga Partnership.
Secondary glazing of windows reduces heat loss and draughts but
you must ensure that there is some ventilation and adequate means
of escape in an emergency such as a fire. Remember that any
alteration to your windows, including their replacement, must meet
the relevant requirements of the Building Regulations. You should
consult your local authority on the need for Building Regulation
permission before any work is undertaken.
Heat your home a little more
In cold weather, the best way to keep rooms warm enough to avoid
condensation is to keep low background heating on all day, even
when there is no-one at home. This is very important in flats and
bungalows and other dwellings where the bedrooms are not above a
warm living room. If you have central heating set it to provide
background warmth in all rooms including unused rooms. Otherwise
install suitable thermostatically controlled heaters where
necessary (do not use paraffin or flueless bottled gas heaters for
this purpose). The thermostats will help control heating and costs.
Remember to provide background ventilation at the same time.
Dehumidifiers will help dry out damp in newly built houses. They
can also help reduce condensation but they are less effective in
cold damp rooms.
Points to remember
Remove mould reduce moisture:
- Cover pans
- Dry clothes outdoors
- Vent your tumble dryer to the outside
- Avoid using paraffin or flueless bottled gas heaters
Ventilate to remove moisture:
- Ventilate all the time, especially when someone is in
- Increase ventilation of the kitchen and bathroom when in use
and shut the door
- Ventilate cupboards, wardrobes and blocked chimneys
Insulate and draughtproof:
- Insulate the loft
- Draughtproof windows and external doors
- Consider cavity wall insulation
- Consider secondary glazing
- Find out if you are eligible for a grant or other help
Heat your home a little more:
- If possible keep low background heat on all day with background
ventilation
- Find out about benefits, rebates and help with fuel bills
Further information
If you own your own home or rent it from a private landlord and
if you are over 60 or have a child under 16 and receive an
income-related benefit or Disability Living allowance or other
eligible benefit, you may be able to get an Energy Efficiency grant
that includes draught proofing and loft insulation under the Warm
Front Scheme. For information on grants under the Warm Front Scheme
contact the Eaga Partnership:
- Networking Team, Freepost NEA 12054, Newcastle-upon-Tyne NE2
1BR (no stamp required)
- Telephone: 0800 316 6011(Monday-Friday 8am-6pm, and
Saturdays-9am-5pm closed bank holidays)
- email enquiry@eaga.co.uk
- eaga.com
- warmfront.co.uk
If you are an owner-occupier or private tenant you may be
eligible for a discretionary improvement or repair loan for works
to cure damp and improve ventilation and heating from Peterborough
City Council. If you are renting your property from a private
landlord and you believe that repairs are required or there is
insufficient heating or insulation you should contact the council’s
Private Sector Housing team.
Useful contacts
- For advice and help on insulation and heating contact the
Energy Saving Trust Advice Centre on 0800 512012
- Your gas or electricity supply company
- Consumer Direct can
provide advice about budget schemes such as fuel saving stamps that
spread the cost of heating: Consumer Direct: 08454 04 05 06.