REPAIRS AND MAINTENANCE
DIY, Builder, Tradesman or Specialist?
Whether to do a job yourself or call in someone
else will depend on your physical ability, technical know-how, time
available, personal finance, availability of tools and in many
cases how comfortable you feel at the top of a ladder!
Chimneys, pots, flashings, tiles or slates and
roof timbers
Scaffolding may be required and it is easy to
cause more damage - best left to a builder.
Gutters and downpipes, bricks and mortar
joints and painting upper storey windows
Do it yourself if you are comfortable on a ladder
or you can hire a tower scaffold. If not, leave it to the
professionals.
Airbricks, ground floor windows and door
painting, maintaining gullies and waste pipes, reducing earth and
paving to 6 inches below the dpc
Do it yourself.
Cracks in external walls, structural cracks to
wall or ceiling plaster
Consult a surveyor or structural engineer before
you do anything else.
Chemical damp proof course, dry rot treatment
and woodworm treatment
Consult specialist companies. Always get two
reports and quotations.
Electrical work
If in doubt consult qualified registered
electricians and get two reports and quotations before agreeing
work should start.
Gas appliances including fires, heaters and
gas central heating
Get checked annually by a CORGI registered
person. Any work required must be carried out by a CORGI
registered person. Get two quotations for the work.
Internal joinery including floors, skirtings,
stairs, handrails and internal doors
Except for minor jobs, these should be left to a
builder unless you have some experience.
Repair and maintenance of taps, pipe joints,
wastes
Do it yourself.
Painting
External woodwork such as window frames, doors
and fascia boards need painting or staining every three years to
stop them rotting. Rain, frost and sunshine all combine to damage
paint and let water into the wood.
The materials you need are easily available, but
even employing a painter is much cheaper than having to replace
rotten woodwork. Don't paint wood when it is likely to rain. The
best time to paint a house is early or late summer.
What you need to do is . . .
- Wash down the wood with warm water containing a
small amount of washing-up liquid and rinse with clean water.
- Rub down with sandpaper wrapped around a small
block of wood and make sure that you remove all loose paint.
- Paint stripper- if the paint comes off in long
strips or is cracked you should use paint remover to get down to
bare wood - details of how to use it will be on the bottle or tin.
Follow these instructions carefully. Remember to protect your eyes
and skin.
- Filling - scrape out any areas of rotten wood.
Softened wood can be strengthened by painting with a proprietary
wood hardener. Fill any holes or cracks with putty or wood filler.
For greater amounts of damage, consider repair or replacement of
the affected timber.
- Prime use wood primer paint to paint any areas
of bare wood.
- Undercoat - paint throughout with undercoat
paint and, when it's dry, sandpaper lightly so that you just
scratch the surface of the undercoat.
- Top coat - paint with two coats of gloss paint
remembering not to put too much paint on the brush. Use special
exterior 'microporous' paint outside as this will last longer.
- Brush care - to save brushes from hardening
when you take a break put them in a plastic bag and seal it by
folding the opening, to keep air out. When you have finished all
your painting, scrape off the excess paint using the back of an old
knife or a scraper. For water based paints, rinse in cold or warm
water, following the instructions on the paint can. For oil based
paints, rinse out in white spirit or turpentine, following the
instructions on the paint can. Do not dispose of white spirit or
turpentine through your drains. Put it in a sealed container and
bin it.
Sealing - the gap between the side of
windows and doors and the wall can be filled to stop water getting
in. You can do this by buying tubes of 'mastic' which you apply
with a cheap and simple 'mastic gun'. When dry, it is a bit like
rubber. Internal gap filling should be decorators caulk/mastic. You
will not be able to paint over silicone for external gap
filling.
Applying mastic sealant
Gaps between woodwork and walls can be filled
with a flexible sealer. The nozzle is directed into the space with
the help of a special gun For a smooth finish wet a finger or putty
knife with water then run down the mastic in one continuous
movement. It can be painted 24 hours later
Tools, equipment and materials
- Sandpaper and sanding block
- Paint remover - if there are bad areas of paint
- Paint brush for applying remover don't use the
same brush for painting
- Paint scraper - useful for scraping off loose or
flaking paint
- White Spirit or turpentine
- Wood Hardener and Wood Filler or putty - if there are
minor holes or cracks, or rot
- Primer paint - if there is bare wood
- Undercoat
- Gloss paint - microporous for outside
- Ladder or tower scaffold for reaching upper areas
- Hiring a tower scaffold will be cheaper than getting a
painter to do the work and safer than working from a ladder
- Masking tape - to tape newspaper to glass and catch
splashes
- Mastic gun and mastic - if you need to seal around
window and door frames
- Paintbrushes/Rollers - small brushes for window
mouldings etc, large brushes/rollers for walls etc. Doors/skirtings
etc can be painted quickly using foam rollers.
Gutters and
downpipes
Repair leaking gutters before rainwater causes extensive damage
to bricks, rots windows and causes damp. Most gutter leaks are
caused by one of four problems: blockages, holes or cracks in them,
leaking or sagging:
Blockages
Use a small brush and clean along the gutter. You may find it
easier to have a bucket tied to the ladder to put waste in. Putting
a piece of gauze or chicken wire over the downpipe outlet should
stop leaves getting into the downpipe. Flush blocked downpipes out
with a hose.
Holes or cracks
These can be repaired provided they are not too large. On
plastic, use a plastic sealing compound; while on cast iron use a
metal putty or fibreglass.
Leaking joints
Joints between lengths of guttering can sometimes leak because
the rubber seal is worn or has dirt underneath. To clean under or
to change the seal in plastic guttering you unclip the gutter. With
some types of gutter you buy new seals, but with others you replace
the joints. Apply some
washing up liquid to the clip to lubricate it so
that it will slide over the edge of the gutter more easily.
Sagging
If the gutter is sagging or sloping the wrong way water will not
flow to the downpipe properly. You will need to fit extra brackets.
As there are different ways of fixing them look to see how the
others have been done.
Sinks, drains and gullies
To carry water away underground there are gulleys and drains.
They take water from gutters, sinks, baths, showers, washbasins and
waste from the toilet.
Gullies
To keep your gullies and drains working properly make sure that
there are metal grates over the gulleys, that the grates are not
blocked with leaves. Every three months you should put three large
cups of washing soda crystals or half a bottle of strong bleach
down the gulleys. Leave it overnight and then rinse by pouring down
some buckets of water. Do not breath in any fumes given off from
the bleach or crystals and protect your skin.
Sinks
To clear a blocked sink, block the overflow and other
connections such as second sinks and washing machine connections
with a cloth, then holding the cloth in place, push a plunger up
and down quickly over the plughole. If this does not work, unscrew
the bottle trap or plastic fitting under the sink and clean it and
also clean the pipe with wire from both sides. Reassemble the
system and flush through with clean water. There are several
aerosol and chemical drain unblockers available. Follow the
instructions carefully if these are used.
Drains and sewers
All waste water from your home is carried away
underground by drains and sewers.
Who is responsible?
You are normally responsible for all drains that serve your
property. This means keeping them clean and in good repair. Neither
the Council nor Anglian Water are responsible for private drains.
Your responsibility does not stop at the boundary of your property.
Drains that serve your property are usually your responsibility
until they connect with a main sewer in the road. So, too, are
sewers built after 1937, although this responsibility is shared
with the owners of other properties also using the sewer. An
exception to this rule is any shared sewer built before 1937 to
take waste from more than one property. Anglian Water is
responsible for all of these older shared sewers and will unblock
or repair them free of charge. If you need to report a problem with
a sewer of this type contact this department.
Ways to keep drains clear
Most drainage problems are caused by simple blockages in the
pipes. Occasionally more serious problems can be caused by damaged
pipes, which are more expensive to put right. People flushing large
items down the toilet, such as nappies, cause many blockages. Oil
and fat from cooking also causes a lot of problems if it is poured
down the sink or outside gulley because the fat becomes solid in
the drain and blocks the pipe. You should bag and bin all these
things. Tree roots can also block drains. Roots cause clay soil to
shrink in places and drains running through it may crack allowing
roots to grow in. When you plant trees make sure the minimum
planting distance is equal to the expected height of the tree when
fully grown. Finally, remember that in addition to large bulky
items, never use a drain to dispose of any inflammable material or
liquid.
Blocked drains
Nearly all blocked drains can be cleared using
drain rods. Unless you can get hold of a set of rods, and you are
sure you know what you are doing, it is best to call out a plumber
or drainage contractor. Look in the Yellow Pages under "Drain and
Pipe Cleaning". The current cost of clearing a simple blockage
should be from £50. Ask the price before you agree any work
and check whether there will be any callout charge. Sometimes
rodding isn't enough and drains need to be cleared using high
pressure jetting equipment. Jetting can get through blockages where
rodding fails. It can also scour solidified fat from the drains.
However, jetting is more expensive. Remember that a good set of
rods will normally do the job and should be cheaper.
Repairing brick walls
Mortar joints hold bricks together and stop rain
getting in. If they are soft, crumbling, cracked or are badly worn,
they need to be repaired to prevent damp and strengthen the
wall.
Raking out joints
Use a plugging chisel and club hammer to clean
out the mortar to a depth of half to three quarters of an inch
(12-18mm) from about a square yard or metre of wall at a time.
Brush the wall down to remove dust.
Mixing mortar
Measure out one part cement, one part lime and
six parts sand in any clean container. You can buy these from a
builders merchant or a large DIY store. Mix the dry materials first
and slowly add water whilst still mixing until a firm smooth mortar
is produced.
Pointing
Wet the wall and then force the mortar into the
joints. Wait until the mortar is a little stiff and then rub a
piece of plastic pipe or trowel handle along the joint until it is
smooth and matches the original. Brush off any waste from the
bricks when it is dry.
Damaged bricks
If the outer face of the brick is damaged it is
best to replace it or it may cause damp. Before starting, make sure
you have a replacement, as older bricks are larger than modern
ones. Some builders merchants may have these; otherwise you will
have to find someone who is knocking down an old wall. To take a
brick out, remove the mortar around it to a depth of 4 inches
(110mm) and then try to dislodge or break it. Alternatively, you
can do a temporary repair by carefully spreading render over its
surface. Mix the render the same as mortar except use one part
cement to four parts sand and no lime.
Airbricks
If you have timber floors on the ground floor it
is very important that air is allowed underneath to help prevent
the wood from rotting. To do this you should have airbricks on the
outside walls near the ground. These should not be blocked by
paving or earth and must be kept clear by poking with a
stick.
Pictures showing open mortar joints and
pointing
Paths, yards and steps
People falling accounts for about a million
accidents a year, with about 8% of these on outside paths, yards
and steps. Check that paths, yards and steps are level and in good
repair. Clean off algae and moss, which can become slippery, by
scrubbing down with a detergent or proprietary patio
cleaner. During icy weather treat all paved areas that will be
walked on with grit or salt to prevent any slips or painful
falls.
Glazing
Sooner or later you might need to replace a pane
of broken glass in a door or window. This is not a difficult job.
ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION WHEN HANDLING GLASS.
Remove broken glass
Put some adhesive tape over the broken glass then
break away the glass from the top, going down slowly, using a
hammer or heavy tool. Wear gloves and protect your eyes. When you
have removed the glass, take out any nails or glazing sprigs that
are in the frame and then take out the old putty and any pieces of
glass still on the edges by using a chisel or utility knife. If the
putty is very hard, tap the chisel or knife gently with a
hammer.
Measure the frame
Now measure the inside of the frame. Use a steel
tape to measure the height and width but then take off 1/8 inch
(3mm) off each measurement to give you the right size. Paint the
rebate with one coat of wood paint or primer.
Check glass size
When you have the new piece of glass, check that
it is the right size by a trial fitting. Take the glass out and
then get the putty ready.
Type of putty
Apart from glass, you will need a tub of putty
and some panel-pins, or sprigs The type of putty will depend on the
type of frame. Ask when you buy the glass.
Fitting the glass
Take the putty and roll it in your hands quickly.
It is easier to use if it is taken from the bottom of the tub. Put
it on a piece of newspaper and roll it with a knife for a few
seconds to take out some of the oil. To stop the putty sticking to
your hands, wet them slightly. When you have rolled the putty into
a sausage shape, press it into the rebate, using just enough for
the new glass to rest against. Now put the glass into the rebate
and press it gently around the edges. Next put a little putty
on each panel pin or sprig and press it into the rebate just in
front of the glass. Placing a hammer against the glass, slide it
carefully to knock in the pin just enough to hold the glass in
place. Now take the rest of the putty and press it into position on
the outside of the glass and rebate.
Finishing
Using the putty on other windows as an example,
try to get yours to match. Use a wetted knife to smooth it off and
get it to an arrow shape in the corner. Then take off any squeezed
out putty on the inside of the glass. Lastly, let the putty go hard
and dry for about two weeks before painting. Protect fresh putty
from birds - they are attracted to the linseed oil and will peck at
soft putty.

Tap out most of the broken glass with a hammer
then remove remaining splinters by hand - wear thick gloves for
protection.
Chop out old putty from the rebate using a
hacking knife. Tap with a hammer if necessary. Be careful not to
damage the window frame.
Pull out old glazing sprigs with a pair of
pincers or pliers.