REPAIRS AND MAINTENANCE

 

DIY, Builder, Tradesman or Specialist?

 
Whether to do a job yourself or call in someone else will depend on your physical ability, technical know-how, time available, personal finance, availability of tools and in many cases how comfortable you feel at the top of a ladder!
 
Chimneys, pots, flashings, tiles or slates and roof timbers
Scaffolding may be required and it is easy to cause more damage - best left to a builder.
 
Gutters and downpipes, bricks and mortar joints and painting upper storey windows
Do it yourself if you are comfortable on a ladder or you can hire a tower scaffold. If not, leave it to the professionals.
 
Airbricks, ground floor windows and door painting, maintaining gullies and waste pipes, reducing earth and paving to 6 inches below the dpc
Do it yourself.
 
Cracks in external walls, structural cracks to wall or ceiling plaster
Consult a surveyor or structural engineer before you do anything else.
 
Chemical damp proof course, dry rot treatment and woodworm treatment
Consult specialist companies. Always get two reports and quotations.
 
Electrical work
If in doubt consult qualified registered electricians and get two reports and quotations before agreeing work should start.
 
Gas appliances including fires, heaters and gas central heating
Get checked annually by a CORGI registered person. Any work required must be carried out by a CORGI registered person. Get two quotations for the work.
 
Internal joinery including floors, skirtings, stairs, handrails and internal doors
Except for minor jobs, these should be left to a builder unless you have some experience.
 
Repair and maintenance of taps, pipe joints, wastes
Do it yourself.
 
Painting
External woodwork such as window frames, doors and fascia boards need painting or staining every three years to stop them rotting. Rain, frost and sunshine all combine to damage paint and let water into the wood.
 
The materials you need are easily available, but even employing a painter is much cheaper than having to replace rotten woodwork. Don't paint wood when it is likely to rain. The best time to paint a house is early or late summer.
 
What you need to do is . . .
  • Wash down the wood with warm water containing a small amount of washing-up liquid and rinse with clean water.
  • Rub down with sandpaper wrapped around a small block of wood and make sure that you remove all loose paint.
  • Paint stripper- if the paint comes off in long strips or is cracked you should use paint remover to get down to bare wood - details of how to use it will be on the bottle or tin. Follow these instructions carefully. Remember to protect your eyes and skin.
  • Filling - scrape out any areas of rotten wood. Softened wood can be strengthened by painting with a proprietary wood hardener. Fill any holes or cracks with putty or wood filler. For greater amounts of damage, consider repair or replacement of the affected timber.
  • Prime use wood primer paint to paint any areas of bare wood.
  • Undercoat - paint throughout with undercoat paint and, when it's dry, sandpaper lightly so that you just scratch the surface of the undercoat.
  • Top coat - paint with two coats of gloss paint remembering not to put too much paint on the brush. Use special exterior 'microporous' paint outside as this will last longer.
  • Brush care - to save brushes from hardening when you take a break put them in a plastic bag and seal it by folding the opening, to keep air out. When you have finished all your painting, scrape off the excess paint using the back of an old knife or a scraper. For water based paints, rinse in cold or warm water, following the instructions on the paint can. For oil based paints, rinse out in white spirit or turpentine, following the instructions on the paint can. Do not dispose of white spirit or turpentine through your drains. Put it in a sealed container and bin it.
 
Sealing - the gap between the side of windows and doors and the wall can be filled to stop water getting in. You can do this by buying tubes of 'mastic' which you apply with a cheap and simple 'mastic gun'. When dry, it is a bit like rubber. Internal gap filling should be decorators caulk/mastic. You will not be able to paint over silicone for external gap filling.
 
 
applying mastic sealant
Applying mastic sealant
 
Gaps between woodwork and walls can be filled with a flexible sealer. The nozzle is directed into the space with the help of a special gun For a smooth finish wet a finger or putty knife with water then run down the mastic in one continuous movement. It can be painted 24 hours later
 
Tools, equipment and materials
  • Sandpaper and sanding block
  • Paint remover - if there are bad areas of paint
  • Paint brush for applying remover don't use the same brush for painting
  • Paint scraper - useful for scraping off loose or flaking paint
  • White Spirit or turpentine
  • Wood Hardener and Wood Filler or putty - if there are minor holes or cracks, or rot
  • Primer paint - if there is bare wood
  • Undercoat
  • Gloss paint - microporous for outside
  • Ladder or tower scaffold for reaching upper areas
  • Hiring a tower scaffold will be cheaper than getting a painter to do the work and safer than working from a ladder
  • Masking tape - to tape newspaper to glass and catch splashes
  • Mastic gun and mastic - if you need to seal around window and door frames
  • Paintbrushes/Rollers - small brushes for window mouldings etc, large brushes/rollers for walls etc. Doors/skirtings etc can be painted quickly using foam rollers.

 

Gutters and downpipes

Repair leaking gutters before rainwater causes extensive damage to bricks, rots windows and causes damp. Most gutter leaks are caused by one of four problems: blockages, holes or cracks in them, leaking or sagging:

 
Blockages

Use a small brush and clean along the gutter. You may find it easier to have a bucket tied to the ladder to put waste in. Putting a piece of gauze or chicken wire over the downpipe outlet should stop leaves getting into the downpipe. Flush blocked downpipes out with a hose.

 

Holes or cracks

These can be repaired provided they are not too large. On plastic, use a plastic sealing compound; while on cast iron use a metal putty or fibreglass.

 

Leaking joints

Joints between lengths of guttering can sometimes leak because the rubber seal is worn or has dirt underneath. To clean under or to change the seal in plastic guttering you unclip the gutter. With some types of gutter you buy new seals, but with others you replace the joints. Apply some

washing up liquid to the clip to lubricate it so that it will slide over the edge of the gutter more easily.
 
Sagging

If the gutter is sagging or sloping the wrong way water will not flow to the downpipe properly. You will need to fit extra brackets. As there are different ways of fixing them look to see how the others have been done.

 

Sinks, drains and gullies

To carry water away underground there are gulleys and drains. They take water from gutters, sinks, baths, showers, washbasins and waste from the toilet.

 

Gullies

To keep your gullies and drains working properly make sure that there are metal grates over the gulleys, that the grates are not blocked with leaves. Every three months you should put three large cups of washing soda crystals or half a bottle of strong bleach down the gulleys. Leave it overnight and then rinse by pouring down some buckets of water. Do not breath in any fumes given off from the bleach or crystals and protect your skin.

 

Sinks

To clear a blocked sink, block the overflow and other connections such as second sinks and washing machine connections with a cloth, then holding the cloth in place, push a plunger up and down quickly over the plughole. If this does not work, unscrew the bottle trap or plastic fitting under the sink and clean it and also clean the pipe with wire from both sides. Reassemble the system and flush through with clean water. There are several aerosol and chemical drain unblockers available. Follow the instructions carefully if these are used.

 

Drains and sewers

All waste water from your home is carried away underground by drains and sewers.

 

Who is responsible?

You are normally responsible for all drains that serve your property. This means keeping them clean and in good repair. Neither the Council nor Anglian Water are responsible for private drains. Your responsibility does not stop at the boundary of your property. Drains that serve your property are usually your responsibility until they connect with a main sewer in the road. So, too, are sewers built after 1937, although this responsibility is shared with the owners of other properties also using the sewer. An exception to this rule is any shared sewer built before 1937 to take waste from more than one property. Anglian Water is responsible for all of these older shared sewers and will unblock or repair them free of charge. If you need to report a problem with a sewer of this type contact this department.

 

Ways to keep drains clear

Most drainage problems are caused by simple blockages in the pipes. Occasionally more serious problems can be caused by damaged pipes, which are more expensive to put right. People flushing large items down the toilet, such as nappies, cause many blockages. Oil and fat from cooking also causes a lot of problems if it is poured down the sink or outside gulley because the fat becomes solid in the drain and blocks the pipe. You should bag and bin all these things. Tree roots can also block drains. Roots cause clay soil to shrink in places and drains running through it may crack allowing roots to grow in. When you plant trees make sure the minimum planting distance is equal to the expected height of the tree when fully grown. Finally, remember that in addition to large bulky items, never use a drain to dispose of any inflammable material or liquid.

 
Blocked drains
Nearly all blocked drains can be cleared using drain rods. Unless you can get hold of a set of rods, and you are sure you know what you are doing, it is best to call out a plumber or drainage contractor. Look in the Yellow Pages under "Drain and Pipe Cleaning". The current cost of clearing a simple blockage should be from £50. Ask the price before you agree any work and check whether there will be any callout charge. Sometimes rodding isn't enough and drains need to be cleared using high pressure jetting equipment. Jetting can get through blockages where rodding fails. It can also scour solidified fat from the drains. However, jetting is more expensive. Remember that a good set of rods will normally do the job and should be cheaper.

Repairing brick walls

Mortar joints hold bricks together and stop rain getting in. If they are soft, crumbling, cracked or are badly worn, they need to be repaired to prevent damp and strengthen the wall.

 
Raking out joints
Use a plugging chisel and club hammer to clean out the mortar to a depth of half to three quarters of an inch (12-18mm) from about a square yard or metre of wall at a time. Brush the wall down to remove dust.
 
Mixing mortar
Measure out one part cement, one part lime and six parts sand in any clean container. You can buy these from a builders merchant or a large DIY store. Mix the dry materials first and slowly add water whilst still mixing until a firm smooth mortar is produced.
 
Pointing
Wet the wall and then force the mortar into the joints. Wait until the mortar is a little stiff and then rub a piece of plastic pipe or trowel handle along the joint until it is smooth and matches the original. Brush off any waste from the bricks when it is dry.
 
Damaged bricks
If the outer face of the brick is damaged it is best to replace it or it may cause damp. Before starting, make sure you have a replacement, as older bricks are larger than modern ones. Some builders merchants may have these; otherwise you will have to find someone who is knocking down an old wall. To take a brick out, remove the mortar around it to a depth of 4 inches (110mm) and then try to dislodge or break it. Alternatively, you can do a temporary repair by carefully spreading render over its surface. Mix the render the same as mortar except use one part cement to four parts sand and no lime.
 
Airbricks
If you have timber floors on the ground floor it is very important that air is allowed underneath to help prevent the wood from rotting. To do this you should have airbricks on the outside walls near the ground. These should not be blocked by paving or earth and must be kept clear by poking with a stick.
 
picture of open mortar jointspicture showing pointing
Pictures showing open mortar joints and pointing
 
Paths, yards and steps
People falling accounts for about a million accidents a year, with about 8% of these on outside paths, yards and steps. Check that paths, yards and steps are level and in good repair. Clean off algae and moss, which can become slippery, by scrubbing down with a detergent or proprietary patio cleaner. During icy weather treat all paved areas that will be walked on with grit or salt to prevent any slips or painful falls.
 
Glazing
Sooner or later you might need to replace a pane of broken glass in a door or window. This is not a difficult job. ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION WHEN HANDLING GLASS.
 
Remove broken glass
Put some adhesive tape over the broken glass then break away the glass from the top, going down slowly, using a hammer or heavy tool. Wear gloves and protect your eyes. When you have removed the glass, take out any nails or glazing sprigs that are in the frame and then take out the old putty and any pieces of glass still on the edges by using a chisel or utility knife. If the putty is very hard, tap the chisel or knife gently with a hammer.
 
Measure the frame
Now measure the inside of the frame. Use a steel tape to measure the height and width but then take off 1/8 inch (3mm) off each measurement to give you the right size. Paint the rebate with one coat of wood paint or primer.
 
Check glass size
When you have the new piece of glass, check that it is the right size by a trial fitting. Take the glass out and then get the putty ready.
 
Type of putty
Apart from glass, you will need a tub of putty and some panel-pins, or sprigs The type of putty will depend on the type of frame. Ask when you buy the glass.
 
Fitting the glass
Take the putty and roll it in your hands quickly. It is easier to use if it is taken from the bottom of the tub. Put it on a piece of newspaper and roll it with a knife for a few seconds to take out some of the oil. To stop the putty sticking to your hands, wet them slightly. When you have rolled the putty into a sausage shape, press it into the rebate, using just enough for the new glass to rest against. Now put the glass into the rebate and press it gently around the edges.  Next put a little putty on each panel pin or sprig and press it into the rebate just in front of the glass. Placing a hammer against the glass, slide it carefully to knock in the pin just enough to hold the glass in place. Now take the rest of the putty and press it into position on the outside of the glass and rebate.
 
Finishing
Using the putty on other windows as an example, try to get yours to match. Use a wetted knife to smooth it off and get it to an arrow shape in the corner. Then take off any squeezed out putty on the inside of the glass. Lastly, let the putty go hard and dry for about two weeks before painting. Protect fresh putty from birds - they are attracted to the linseed oil and will peck at soft putty.
 
 

picture showing applying putty

Tap out most of the broken glass with a hammer then remove remaining splinters by hand - wear thick gloves for protection.
Chop out old putty from the rebate using a hacking knife. Tap with a hammer if necessary. Be careful not to damage the window frame.
Pull out old glazing sprigs with a pair of pincers or pliers.
 
Peterborough City Council. Town Hall, Bridge Street, Peterborough, PE1 1QT - (01733) 747474 - DX12310 Peterborough 1